080909 Tue [Siem Reap]

Caught a really early flight at 6am by Jetstar. Surprisingly it was not as bad as my first experience on budget airline to Hong Kong. But probably also because I was blessed with the whole row of 3 seats all to myself.

Siem Reap Airport

Due to time difference, I reach Siem Reap Airport at their local time 7am after a 2 hour flight. It's still early and the airport is quite empty. Did ask for airport transfer when I booked the hotel over Internet but apparently they didn't get my request. Luckily there was taxi easily available to town for USD10. And it turn out that the hotel didn't even have my request for the room! Luckily there're still rooms and it's really not too bad for USD21. But can get better and cheaper one. That's what Kriss told me.

Thunborey Hotel

Central Market (near my hotel)

Oh Kriss is the local driver that I found over the net. Thought he's a senior man when I read his profile but he turns out to be 1 year younger than me! First impression not really good I must admit because I wonder how experienced can this young punk have. But he turns out to be really sincere in his service and really went all the way out to help me. Even when I was approached by the locals to buy a book on Angkor Archaeological Park at USD15, he came over, scolded them and made them charged me only USD6 only! He told me the cost price was USD5 so let them earned 1 bucks, which was already a lot he told me. Some locals can earn as little as USD25 a month to survive!

Angkor is further than I thought and the place is even bigger. Walking is not possible to the park nor within the whole park. To travel from one temple to another need a drive. For USD40 I get a 3 day pass to the place. Do we really need so many days to cover the place? You bet!

Initially I kept trying to think positive when it drizzled. But when I started climbing the first, the second temple, I truly thank God. I really don't know then it's the rain and when it's my own perspiration! What if the sun is blazing hot? I would have suffered heat stroke!

Entrance to Angkor Thom

My first stop was Angkor Thom (Big Angkor). It was a 3km2 walled and moated royal city with some existing structures such as Baphuon and Phimeanakas before King Jayavarman VII built it as his capital city. There are also the Bayon, Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King which I covered in 2 1/2 hour before lunch on feet.

Carving on the wall in Bayon

Parts of Bayon

Bayon is a must-see after Angkor Wat. and was build by King Jayavarman VII in late 12th century in Bayon style under Buddhism. It has 37 standing towers and most of them sport 4 carved faces of which is a matter of debate who the faces represented. The wall carving depicts real-life scenes from historical sea battle between the Khmer and the Cham. The unfinished carvings on some walls are likely to indicate the death of Jayavarman VII. The carvings were still visibly impressive even after almost a century of erosion. There I met an Aussie based in Malaysia who have been here about 10 times, bringing his relatives and friend when they visit him in Malaysia.

Next I had to cross a long bridge before reaching Baphuon. It was build in mid 11th century by king Udayadityavarman II under influence of Hinduism. It has largely collapsed and is undergoing extensive restoration. Here the tailing of little paddlers starts. Kids that look as young as 5 years old would follow you around selling magnets, scarf, beads bracelet, postcard. They looked really innocent and I really wanted to help them but the moment I stopped to talk to one, the rest quickly crowd around. And worse after I bought magnet from 1, the rest keep bugging me till my next stop. As much as I had very much expected it to happen, I really can bear to totally ignore them. Hence, subsequently, I reciprocate with a warm smile and a little prayer in my heart for them. That's the best I could do as it would be endless for me to help all!

Baphuon

Local old man resting outside Baphuon

The third stop in Angkor Thom was Phimeanakas. It is an impressive lateritic and sandstone pyramid, making it the tallest temple in Angkor Thom. It is really a challenge for those with height phobia to climb not up but down the long step stairs. It's like the stairway to Heaven and it's always not that good an idea to go back down to earth when you're already in Heaven.

Check out the steep stairs and the view from the top!

As I walked along the Sras Srei which was a Royal Bath then, I caught sight of little naked boys swimming and jumping into the pool. Simple activity and they enjoyed every moment of it. Shouldn't we feel the simple doing a simple act of prayers every day?

On the way to Terrace of the Elephants

Terrace of the Elephants is an impressive 2 1/2 m tall, 300 m long wall. The wall is adorned with carved elephants and garudas. It also has a 5 headed horse in a scenes of warriors and dancers.

The elephants' trunk

Terrace of the Leper King is at the north of Terrace of the Elephants. It has an intricate carving ont the inner wall done in late 12th century. Along the way back to look for Kriss was the beautiful sight of Prasats Suor Prat which consisted of 12 nearly identical sandstone towers.

Intricate carving on the inner wall

Angkor Thom itself is already such a huge area and it's only a small part of the park. I really couldn't imagine the rest! Okay lunch first before I continue with the rest of the journey. Kriss helped me ordered a non spicy green curry chicken with rice at a road side stall and it taste really good. Well have to stock up lots of energy for the rest of the day! And some spiritual power as well please.

Next stop were Thommanom and Chau Say Thevoda. Most of the carvings here are Hindu-themed. A local appear from nowhere and start to explain to me about Thommanom. That's when I first get to know how the building of a library is like. He went on and on in really impressive proper English to explain to me about the temple. Knew he will be asking for something at the end, but I was just so impressed with his language and explanation that I really can't bring myself to send him away. Just as in life, we often know the consequence but we just lead others lead us along. Should have pray for wisdom and determination at such time instead. So when he continued to tag along with me when I cross over to Chau Say Tevoda, I was firmed and told him that I won't give him anymore money even if he carry on. And indeed, he went off quietly. Sometimes we just have to stand firm and not be shaken by other influence.

Thommanom Chau Say Thevoda

The tour in Ta Keo was a memorable one. This little boy came up to me, asking in proper English where I'm from. Since he has no other followers, I just let him tag along, knowing that he must be trying to get me to buy something from him. In fact he reminds me of those rascals in school! Instead of getting me to buy the postcard in his hands, he directed me to another route that is easier to climb up the Hindu temple build in late 10th century dedicated to Shiva. As he climbed up effortlessly in front of me, he would turn back now and then to see if I'm fine, even telling me to keep left or right where the steps are broader. And like a little tour guide, he would tell me what to look out for though no explanation given. A potential Cambodian SNAG. And on the way down, he simply jumped his way down the big boulders like Super Mario. No way am I jumping down like him! I just stand there and stare blankly at him. But he patiently tell me to sit down and slowly slide down the steps. At one point when the step is far too narrow for me to bend and rest my butt, he climb all the way up to guide me down another path! Needless to say, I ask him for the postcard even before he opened his mouth and gave him USD3. He was beaming from ear to ear! Coz he would have to sell 6 sets in order to earn that amount! But the amount is really nothing compared to the valuable lesson he had taught me. Never think despise those who are weaker and young. There are things that they can do but the strong and arrogant can't. Secondly, he made me truly understand how to evangelize and manage new life. Treat them with sincerity and love and eventually they will follow you. Turn back now and then to check on their well being but never hesitate to go back to them to give them strength and power to bring them back onto the right path when they are lost. Thank you God for giving me such a meaningful lesson through the little boy.

The little Cambodia SNAG

Ta Keo

Ta Prohm is my favorite temple in the whole park. Build in mid 12th century also by King Jayavarman, it is intentionally left partially unrestored so that massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow from the towers and corridors, offering a jungle atmosphere. Indeed there were many 'tree-in-temple' photos opportunities. I heard this is also where Angelina Jolie filmed the Tomb Rider. Magnificent.

Check out the roots!

Banteay Kdei was made the last stop for the day as my camera battery went totally flat. A temple used as monastery for years.

Thank God for getting Kriss to bring me for a nice Cambodian massage in a proper massage house. For USD10 I got a great massage on my aching body not just climb the long day walk-cum-climb but also from daily work. Got the best massage on my stiff shoulder. But must say Cambodian massage is really different from the other massages I ever experience. Painful but it really stretched every part of my body. Was twisted and turned into many of those yoga-like pose.

After cleaning up and a short rest back in hotel, Kriss picked me up for dinner. Pork porridge with many ingredient. Pork, intestine, liver, prawn, squid, bean sprouts with seasoning of lime juice. Really great taste. And it cost a mere USD5 for the pot for 2 and 2 drinks. Not those roadside store but nice big restaurant with alfresco dinner area and indoor bar. Will have to check with Kriss regarding the name of the restaurant in my next email to him.

Porridge in the pot with bean sprouts and lime and basil leaves